Intro
The plane banked sharply between two mountains as we descended toward the tiny airport in Paro, Bhutan. For a moment it felt like the wing might scrape the cliffs.
That’s when it really hit us.
We were about to begin an 11-day trekking adventure into the Himalayas.
Bhutan had been on our bucket list for years. When we both turned 50 the previous year, we decided it was time to stop talking about this trip and finally do it.
Bhutan is not an easy destination to visit. The country limits tourism through a required daily fee—around $250 per person per day. At first glance it sounds expensive, but that fee covers almost everything: guides, transportation, lodging, food, and permits.
In reality, once you arrive you spend very little extra.
And what you get in return is access to one of the most unique and untouched mountain destinations in the world.
Choosing the Trek
After researching several options, we settled on the 11-day Chomolhari Trek with Kandoo Adventures.
Many visitors choose the shorter Druk Path Trek, but since we both enjoy a challenge, the longer Chomolhari route sounded more appealing. It would take us deep into the Himalayas near the Tibetan border and over passes approaching 16,000 feet.
As luck would have it, Kandoo was running a promotion for late March departures, so we booked the trip.
From the beginning they were excellent to work with—very thorough and quick to respond to any questions we had while planning the trip.
Adding Nepal to the Trip
Because flights into Bhutan are limited, most travelers enter the country through cities like Bangkok, Delhi, or Kathmandu.
Since we had to route through Kathmandu, Nepal, we decided to add a few extra days there on both ends of the trip.
(You can read more about our time in Nepal in my other post: I’m Goin’ to Kathmandu – Nepal 2019
We found round-trip flights to Kathmandu through Emirates, with a quick stop in Dubai, for about $900 per person, which felt like a great deal for such a long journey.
Flights into Bhutan are a little different.
Only two airlines fly into the country:
- Druk Air
- Bhutan Airlines
Each leg typically costs about $200 per person, and since there are only a few flights each day, they tend to book quickly.
Flying Into Bhutan
Our flight from Kathmandu to Paro was less than an hour long, but somehow they still managed to serve more food than most domestic flights in the United States.
As we approached Bhutan, the flight quickly became unforgettable.
The plane began banking sharply left and right through a narrow mountain valley. At times the mountains looked so close it felt like the wings might clip them.
Paro Airport is famous for being one of the most difficult airports in the world to land at. Pilots must land using visual flight rules, navigating the mountains without automated landing systems.
Personally, I thought it was pretty awesome.
When we finally touched down, we stepped off the plane and onto the tarmac.
For a moment we just stood there taking it all in.
Holy crap… we’re in Bhutan.
Meeting Our Trekking Group
The airport terminal itself was small but beautifully decorated in traditional Bhutanese architecture.
After exchanging some money and passing quickly through customs, we grabbed our luggage and headed outside where we were greeted by two men dressed in traditional gho.
They helped load our bags and directed us to a van where we waited for the rest of our trekking group.
Soon we spotted a couple we had noticed earlier on the flight walking toward us.
We had guessed correctly—they were part of our group.
This was Graham and Alli from London, longtime friends who shared a love for adventure travel.
We also met our trekking guides, Tandin and Kezang, who would lead us into the mountains over the coming days.
Hotel Olathang
From the airport we drove up a winding hill overlooking Paro Valley to Hotel Olathang, where we would spend the first two nights acclimatizing.
Waiting in the lobby were the rest of our group:
- Leslie from Boston
- Shyam from Washington State
- Xavier, a French expat living in Korea
After introductions, we naturally gravitated toward the hotel bar—which quickly became our unofficial gathering place for the group.
It wouldn’t be the last time.
Day 2 – The Tiger’s Nest Monastery
Our first full day in Bhutan was dedicated to visiting one of the most iconic places in the country:
Tiger’s Nest Monastery (Paro Taktsang).
Perched dramatically on the side of a cliff more than 10,000 feet above sea level, the monastery appears almost impossible to build.
Originally constructed in 1692, it has been rebuilt several times after fires over the centuries.
The hike begins at around 8,500 feet and climbs steeply through pine forest toward the monastery.
It was the perfect acclimatization hike before heading deeper into the mountains.
The trail was busy with both hikers and horses carrying visitors up the steep path. We stopped halfway at a small café for tea and a break before continuing the climb.
Unfortunately, during that break I managed to knock my camera over, shattering the UV filter on my lens.
Fortunately, it was just the filter and not the lens itself.
The monastery complex itself is fascinating. Our guides took us through several rooms filled with ornate statues, paintings, and prayer halls.
Photos aren’t allowed inside, but the experience itself was incredible.
It was also extremely cold inside the stone buildings—especially when walking barefoot across the floors.
After spending about an hour exploring the monastery, we made our way back down the steep trail to the parking area.
The hike felt great and confirmed something important before the trek even started:
So far, the altitude didn’t seem to be affecting us much.
Exploring Paro
After the hike we visited Rinpung Dzong, a massive fortress-monastery overlooking the town of Paro.
Built in the 17th century, the structure now houses both monastic and administrative offices. Standing inside its towering walls, it’s hard not to be amazed that something so massive could have been built centuries ago.
Later we walked through downtown Paro, stopping at the archery field where locals were practicing Bhutan’s national sport.
The targets were incredibly far away, yet they were hitting them with impressive accuracy.
We also wandered through a local market where we stocked up on a few supplies for the trek:
- candy for children we might meet in remote villages
- beer and whiskey for our group
- snacks for the trail
That evening we returned to the hotel for dinner and another round of drinks at the bar.
Some members of the group stayed late celebrating the start of the adventure.
But with the trek beginning the next morning, we decided it was best to turn in early.
Tomorrow we would begin trekking into the Himalayas.
Want more? See Part 2 of our Trip to Bhutan… Into the Himalayas: Beginning the Chomolhari Trek
